How Much Repair Timing Sewing Machine

What To Look For When Buying A Serger:

Y'all know, if you buy a cheap serger from a box store, you lot will be very frustrated. So don't! What is the difference? "Tolerance."

When a machine is manufactured, the manufacturer sets a tolerance level. "Low tolerance," means they don't tolerate any sloppiness in the manufacturing procedure. A "low tolerance" manufactory will make a quality machine. The metal has to encounter a certain quality. The parts have to fit together tightly, without any "play." Yous can detect a serger that's fabricated in a "loftier tolerance" manufacturing plant (where they allow sloppiness), by grabbing the needle bar and see if information technology volition jerk forward and backward. If it wiggles forrad and astern, nosotros tin't set the needle/looper distance (a timing setting), because it'due south variable. If the metal is cheap, the screws strip, and the parts wear out quickly. It so becomes a disposable machine. When you have a cheap machine in for a repair, we don't have much to work with. Sometimes we volition tell you information technology isn't worth the cost of having information technology repaired, because we CAN fix it, but it won't STAY stock-still.

3 features that yous really want on a serger are ane) a congenital-in rolled hem, 2) differential feed, and three) a alpine thread rack.

#1 The rolled hem is such a great manner to finish a raw edge. You can employ information technology to finish the edge of a ruffle, instead of folding it in half. You tin can finish tabular array linens or anything else that you don't desire to put a hem on. On virtually machines, there's a switch in the front that'south pushed forward for regular serging, and pulls back for a rolled hem.

#2 Differential feed ways that you lot have 2 feed dogs. The back feed dog goes the same speed all the time. The forepart feed dog can be adjusted to get faster or slower. So, if you lot're sewing on a stretchy fabric, and yous don't desire it to stretch out and be wavy, y'all can speed upwards that front feed canis familiaris. Nevertheless, if you do want it to stretch out and make a "lettuce leafage edge," you lot can make the front end feed dog go slower. Also, if y'all're sewing with a non-stretchy textile, and yous desire to get together it upward a bit, you tin can speed upwards the front feed domestic dog, and it will gather it. You lot'd need a gathering foot to get deep gathers, though.

#3 A tall thread rack may seem similar a little thing, but the taller the thread rack, the nicer the thread feeds off of the spool. And information technology is sooooo important for the thread to feed well off of the spools. If it doesn't feed well, where the threads are supposed to lock on the edge, will wave.

I'd like to testify you a few things about serger repair.

Here's a common problem we run into with sergers. There are 2 pins in the needle plate that hold the fabric stable as the sew is formed. Sometimes they become aptitude or broken off. Sometimes you tin can bend the aptitude pin back in place. The pin on the left is likewise bent, and will have to be replaced. The pivot on the right is broken off, and volition also have to be replaced. Some sewing machine mechanics are willing to replace these pins, others will only have you buy a whole new needle plate.

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I worked on this serger a couple days ago. The woman says she sews on flannel every mean solar day. If you'll expect closely at the needle plate, you tin meet that the center support is broken out and pokes upward in the forepart. And the support between the pins is broken and pushed down. The crusade of the break is the amount of lint that's packed into the feed dogs. WOW! That'southward a lot of lint!

You can click on the image to get a closer await.

Moral of the story... it's a great idea to remove the needle plate, and clean out the lint every once in a while.

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Sometimes the thread pullers become knocked out of whack. And no matter how much you mess with the tensions, yous won't become a good run up. This is a Bernette, but is the aforementioned on near Berninas.

In this picture, the thread puller is knocked out of position.

Here, I've loosened the blackness spiral, and moved the arm so it's even with the looper arm behind it, then re-tightened the screw.

If you lot have a Bernina or Bernette serger, this is a simple affair y'all tin can exercise yourself!

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When sergers sit unused for a long time, the old oil will turn into a gummy mess. And so, if you can't turn the handwheel, that normally ways you have a gluey mess inside. So we accept to remove the quondam oil with a "solvent," remove the solvent and whatever information technology disolved, then re-oil.

To prevent this from happening to your serger, merely get it out and utilise it every month.
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This poor serger! Its owner should exist reported to the sewing motorcar abuse council!

Strike 1: Bad thread.
Strike 2: The thread rack is on backwards -- the thread needs to pull directly upwards off of the cone.
Strike 3: The far left spool pivot is broken off.
Strike 4: The pad under the spool pin is falling apart.

Strike 5: The thread puller is out of position.

This is a great serger! Nosotros'll just clean information technology up and information technology will run like new.

After its been cleaned and oiled, nosotros'll put the thread puller back in identify.

Then nosotros need to repair the spool pin. I cut a spool pin off of another machine that was in the "bone k."

I used a Dremmel to brand a hole through the lesser of the base of operations. Then I used the Dremmel to hollow out the spool pivot.

Select a screw that will stick up nearly 1/ii" past where the old spool pin broke off. Brand sure the screw and hollow spool pivot with fit together nicely.

Mix up some 5 minute epoxy, and put information technology inside the hollow spool pin. Screw the new spool pivot on, and let it sit until hardened. Make clean upwards whatsoever backlog glue.

Not a very good picture, but you can encounter the position of the thread rack. It even has a sticker on it that tells which side should become towards the front.

Didn't have time to accept more than pictures, only it sewed-off beautifully!

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Skipping Stitches and Tension

(A respond to Anne B. that may be helpful to someone else.)

The first thing we need to check when a machine is skipping stitches, is the needles. Have you put new needles in? And are they pushed all the manner up? When pushed all the way upwardly, the needle on the correct volition be a fiddling longer than the needle on the left. Some Singer sergers have a very specific needle. Get wherever Singer needles are sold, then look for the serger needles. They're different from other brands considering the pinnacle of the shank is very small. Employ a size 75 to 90 needle.

The next affair to check is the needle guard. This is under the needle plate and is like a shield on both sides of the needle (front and back). Do the needles hit the needle guard? That's something y'all can accommodate.

Then make sure at that place are no burrs or damaged needle plate pins.

If yous've checked all of this, and y'all're nevertheless skipping stitches, it'due south time to take it to the shop to take the timing adjusted. That's something you probably don't want to try yourself.

It sounds like the Juki's timing is waaay out, or it has the wrong needles in it. The older Juki'southward likewise take a very specific needle, the BLx1. The newer Juki's accept a regular Schmetz or Bernina 130 705H. Utilize a size 75 to ninety needle.

The timing settings on a serger are quite complicated. #i. The needle bar has to be the right tiptop in relation to the feed dogs. #2. The lower looper has to accept the thread off the dorsum of the needles, and hit just to a higher place the needle eyes. #3. The upper looper has to laissez passer in forepart of the needles,and move far enough to the left, to allow the needles to catch the loop of thread. #four. The loopers have to be very close, but not touch on, and the lower looper has to cross backside the upper looper, only under the bump. #5. Both loopers need to come very close to the needles, but not bear upon. #6. The cut arm needs to be in sync with the feed dogs.

Equally for the tensions, y'all've got to get-go with a good thread. A couple that we've had trouble with are Mediera and Guterman. There's also some that comes on a very big cone, and is very potent (don't know the brand). If yous utilise Maxilock, y'all'll always go your best stitch. And so make sure the thread is pulling straight up, off of the cone. The easier it comes off of the cone, the better your stitch volition exist.

Plow the tension dials to zero, then accident them out with an air compressor or canned air. Then put them all on iii, and offset adjusting them by how your stitch looks.

Start with the needle tensions. They are the straight lines on the back of the fabric. If they're looping, tighten the tension. If they're pulling also tight, loosen them.

Then work with your loopers. You want the ridge, where the stitches lock together, to be balanced on the border of the fabric. If the ridge is coming tightly to the front, loosen the front. If it'southward coming loosely to the front, tighten the dorsum. If it'southward coming tightly to the back, loosen the dorsum. If it'due south coming loosely to the forepart, tighten the back.

I hope there's something here you lot tin can utilise.

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Here's some pictures in reply to serger timing.

There's a bolt/spiral at the bottom of the lower looper that holds it onto the shaft. If you lot loosen it, you tin movement the whole arm.

The lower looper should pass backside the needles and the tip should be just above the heart of the needles.


The loopers should only have a tiny space betwixt them, simply they should "nest" together.

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Here's a schematic of a Bernina 800D serger feed system. If your differential feed isn't working very well. Endeavor some Tri-menses Superior Lubricant or WD-40 to get things loosened up. Focus on the area nether the left side of the serger.